The Dingo did it

No native animal of the Australian bush has gained more notoriety than the Australian dingo. From the Lindy Chamberlan to Frazer Island, the dingo has gained a much maligned reputation.
We were camped in a bush camp on a cattle station camp situated on the Gibb River Road. The evening meal finished, Mary and I prepared to retire for the evening. Immediately before climbing the three step ladder to bed, Mary noticed a solitary boot sitting at the base of the ladder and reminded me to get the other and put them up out of reach of the dingos.
Too late, the missing boot had been carefully placed with it's mate but was now missing. I knew in an instant that a dingo had taken it even though we were eating dinner just a few meters away.
I took the lantern and following an animal track leading from the camp and there it was, my  Blundstone, lying by the track, discarded by the disinterested dingo. Later that evening I lay in the camp bed and enjoyed the mournful howling serenade of a lone dingo.

A few nights later in another roadside bush camp, after finishing tea, we were sitting in our camp chairs soaking up the wonder of the southern sky. Millions of stars were emerging from their daylight slumber to light up the moonless night sky. What a wonderful experience it is to just sit with friends in the silent stillness of the Australian bush and just wonder ..
Then it happened, just like it often does, a lone dingo howled in the distance. I recalled answering them some years back at Sams Creek with my own attempt. Why not give it a try here in remote north WA. A few moments and the dingo answered, I called again and once more the dingo called back. The calling continued for a few minutes, and then we were joined by another to the south. The three of us continued our serenade and were joined by more dingoes. The hairs on the back of our necks began to stand up as the howls came closer. The girls had had enough and retreated to the security of the vans leaving Stan and myself to await their arrival, and then as suddenly as they commenced the serenade, they stopped never to be heard again that evening. What a privileged experience it was, interacting with the cleverest and  and most cunningly shy native of our desert bushland.
Sent from my iPhone

We pulled in to the little town of Wyandra half distance between Charleville and Cunnumulla in SW Qld and discovered this old derelict building with an interesting sign that read...

I V Holland
Licensed Victualler

The word intrigued me and so here I was in outback Qld with iPhone in hand to take the picture and 3G coverage to Google the meaning of the word ' victualler'.
These little towns dotted along our highways and by-ways tell the story of yesterday's Australia, a little white white monument fenced in wrought iron sits in the main street with the names of the local lads who answered the call to serve King and country in the great war. Can't help feel a sadness for the families who did not get to welcome their boys home, but feel a sense of deep pride that this was the generation that above all gave our nation the proud heritage that we claim as Australians.
The town may have died like so many others, but there still remains reminders of times past.

Early morn

The same sunrise but this time looking east.

Sunrise

Sunrise or sunset are my favourite times for photography, I like the subtlety of light and the angles that give life to shadows.
This is looking to the west at sunrise on the Barkly.

Free Camping

Along most of our major highways, authorities provide basic facilities like toilets, level sites and in some cases shade for use by caravanners and campers.
Many travelers plan their trip around these sites and use books like Camps 6 that indicate their location. Both have become so popular that sites have become so popular that is very difficult to get in on most occasions.
And so, the challenge now is to new places, not listed where we can set up camp.
Little Panton River a couple of hundred south of Kunanurra was one. We liked the spot so much we camped a couple of days, the girls did some hand washing while the boys washed the rigs at the causeway on the old highway.
We all agreed that this site would soon be listed and it's secrets revealed to the wider world.

The Big Wet

The top end of WA experienced an extraordinary late wet season which resulted in major road damage.
The road is normally closed for summer wet and was opened not long before we attempted it.
This is an indication of the type of damage experienced.

Bush camp sunset

The camp site was off the Great Northern Highway, not far from the Ord River. The sunset and cloud formation demanded capture.

The perfect bush camp

One of the unexpected delights of travel is the discovery of a the 'hidden treasure' a perfect camp. It must far enough from traffic to be quiet, level to ensure a good sleep, be free from burrs, prickles and spinifex to be comfortable, have a good and close supply of firewood for the camp fire and provide good scenery and perfect light for the sundown.
But beyond all else it should show no signs of being previously inhabited .. This one pretty well met all of the above.

Wyndham WA

The port facility at Wyndham harbour where five rivers empty into the sea. This port boasts the biggest tidal movement in Australia.
We saw where a conveyor belt loading facility was almost complete. When commissioned it will load a zinc ore delivered by four trailer road trains almost 200k away.

End of the Road

The girls celebrate the crossing of the Gibb River Road.
Although we came across numerous fellow travellers with punctures, mechanical problems, and various other minor catastrophes, we came through without a hitch.
Careful preparation, lowering of tyre pressure to 28psi and sensible travel speed, all contributed to a safe and enjoyable crossing.

Durack

Nearing the end of the Gibb overlooking Durack

Durak

Part of Durak station Gibb River.

Looking for a nesting site

Smoko

Smoko time on the road.

Flood damage

The recent record late wet season left it's mark on the roads. Here is an example of a wash out.

Queen Victoria's Head

Mary compares her profile with Queen Victoria's Head in King Leopold Range National Park.

Dog Chain Creek

Lunch time on Dog Chain Creek on the Gibb River Rd.

King Leopold Range

During the traverse of the GR Road, we crossed several ancient mountain ranges worn down by countless millennium. King Leopold Range was one.

Gorges of the Gibb River Road

Many of the gorges involve a great deal of walking and climbing and are more suitable for the young and fit, added to which the oppressive heat saps the energy making simple walks quite arduous.

Texture and colour

Painted Cliffs

Windjana Reflection

The picture speaks a thousand words!

The neighbours

Not everyone is friendly, but so long as we recognize we are in his territory and respect his privacy, we are told he will likely cause us no harm.

The colours

Spectacular orange and black rocks form spires of this natural cathedral.

Windjana camp

We nestle our little camper in the shade of a couple of convenient trees in order to take the sting out of the 30 plus degrees heat.

We will camp in our utes for the next week, having left the luxury of the vans in storage at Derby.

Windjana Gorge

The Gibb River Road remains on the serious outback travelers list of 'must dos' until finally conquered.
It has a rugged reputation only equalled by the Canning Stock Route, but for quite different reasons. Whereas the CSR traverses deserts and it's beauty relates to that environment, the Challenges of the Gibb relate to the effect on the roads of water resulting from the annual wet. The road is in fact impassable and closed for much of the year. So the spectacular nature of the scenery is related to gorges and water courses. Here Windjanna Gorge gives up it's spectacular beauty in the fading afternoon light.