The Dingo did it

No native animal of the Australian bush has gained more notoriety than the Australian dingo. From the Lindy Chamberlan to Frazer Island, the dingo has gained a much maligned reputation.
We were camped in a bush camp on a cattle station camp situated on the Gibb River Road. The evening meal finished, Mary and I prepared to retire for the evening. Immediately before climbing the three step ladder to bed, Mary noticed a solitary boot sitting at the base of the ladder and reminded me to get the other and put them up out of reach of the dingos.
Too late, the missing boot had been carefully placed with it's mate but was now missing. I knew in an instant that a dingo had taken it even though we were eating dinner just a few meters away.
I took the lantern and following an animal track leading from the camp and there it was, my  Blundstone, lying by the track, discarded by the disinterested dingo. Later that evening I lay in the camp bed and enjoyed the mournful howling serenade of a lone dingo.

A few nights later in another roadside bush camp, after finishing tea, we were sitting in our camp chairs soaking up the wonder of the southern sky. Millions of stars were emerging from their daylight slumber to light up the moonless night sky. What a wonderful experience it is to just sit with friends in the silent stillness of the Australian bush and just wonder ..
Then it happened, just like it often does, a lone dingo howled in the distance. I recalled answering them some years back at Sams Creek with my own attempt. Why not give it a try here in remote north WA. A few moments and the dingo answered, I called again and once more the dingo called back. The calling continued for a few minutes, and then we were joined by another to the south. The three of us continued our serenade and were joined by more dingoes. The hairs on the back of our necks began to stand up as the howls came closer. The girls had had enough and retreated to the security of the vans leaving Stan and myself to await their arrival, and then as suddenly as they commenced the serenade, they stopped never to be heard again that evening. What a privileged experience it was, interacting with the cleverest and  and most cunningly shy native of our desert bushland.
Sent from my iPhone

We pulled in to the little town of Wyandra half distance between Charleville and Cunnumulla in SW Qld and discovered this old derelict building with an interesting sign that read...

I V Holland
Licensed Victualler

The word intrigued me and so here I was in outback Qld with iPhone in hand to take the picture and 3G coverage to Google the meaning of the word ' victualler'.
These little towns dotted along our highways and by-ways tell the story of yesterday's Australia, a little white white monument fenced in wrought iron sits in the main street with the names of the local lads who answered the call to serve King and country in the great war. Can't help feel a sadness for the families who did not get to welcome their boys home, but feel a sense of deep pride that this was the generation that above all gave our nation the proud heritage that we claim as Australians.
The town may have died like so many others, but there still remains reminders of times past.

Early morn

The same sunrise but this time looking east.

Sunrise

Sunrise or sunset are my favourite times for photography, I like the subtlety of light and the angles that give life to shadows.
This is looking to the west at sunrise on the Barkly.

Free Camping

Along most of our major highways, authorities provide basic facilities like toilets, level sites and in some cases shade for use by caravanners and campers.
Many travelers plan their trip around these sites and use books like Camps 6 that indicate their location. Both have become so popular that sites have become so popular that is very difficult to get in on most occasions.
And so, the challenge now is to new places, not listed where we can set up camp.
Little Panton River a couple of hundred south of Kunanurra was one. We liked the spot so much we camped a couple of days, the girls did some hand washing while the boys washed the rigs at the causeway on the old highway.
We all agreed that this site would soon be listed and it's secrets revealed to the wider world.

The Big Wet

The top end of WA experienced an extraordinary late wet season which resulted in major road damage.
The road is normally closed for summer wet and was opened not long before we attempted it.
This is an indication of the type of damage experienced.

Bush camp sunset

The camp site was off the Great Northern Highway, not far from the Ord River. The sunset and cloud formation demanded capture.

The perfect bush camp

One of the unexpected delights of travel is the discovery of a the 'hidden treasure' a perfect camp. It must far enough from traffic to be quiet, level to ensure a good sleep, be free from burrs, prickles and spinifex to be comfortable, have a good and close supply of firewood for the camp fire and provide good scenery and perfect light for the sundown.
But beyond all else it should show no signs of being previously inhabited .. This one pretty well met all of the above.

Wyndham WA

The port facility at Wyndham harbour where five rivers empty into the sea. This port boasts the biggest tidal movement in Australia.
We saw where a conveyor belt loading facility was almost complete. When commissioned it will load a zinc ore delivered by four trailer road trains almost 200k away.

End of the Road

The girls celebrate the crossing of the Gibb River Road.
Although we came across numerous fellow travellers with punctures, mechanical problems, and various other minor catastrophes, we came through without a hitch.
Careful preparation, lowering of tyre pressure to 28psi and sensible travel speed, all contributed to a safe and enjoyable crossing.

Durack

Nearing the end of the Gibb overlooking Durack

Durak

Part of Durak station Gibb River.

Looking for a nesting site

Smoko

Smoko time on the road.

Flood damage

The recent record late wet season left it's mark on the roads. Here is an example of a wash out.

Queen Victoria's Head

Mary compares her profile with Queen Victoria's Head in King Leopold Range National Park.

Dog Chain Creek

Lunch time on Dog Chain Creek on the Gibb River Rd.

King Leopold Range

During the traverse of the GR Road, we crossed several ancient mountain ranges worn down by countless millennium. King Leopold Range was one.

Gorges of the Gibb River Road

Many of the gorges involve a great deal of walking and climbing and are more suitable for the young and fit, added to which the oppressive heat saps the energy making simple walks quite arduous.

Texture and colour

Painted Cliffs

Windjana Reflection

The picture speaks a thousand words!

The neighbours

Not everyone is friendly, but so long as we recognize we are in his territory and respect his privacy, we are told he will likely cause us no harm.

The colours

Spectacular orange and black rocks form spires of this natural cathedral.

Windjana camp

We nestle our little camper in the shade of a couple of convenient trees in order to take the sting out of the 30 plus degrees heat.

We will camp in our utes for the next week, having left the luxury of the vans in storage at Derby.

Windjana Gorge

The Gibb River Road remains on the serious outback travelers list of 'must dos' until finally conquered.
It has a rugged reputation only equalled by the Canning Stock Route, but for quite different reasons. Whereas the CSR traverses deserts and it's beauty relates to that environment, the Challenges of the Gibb relate to the effect on the roads of water resulting from the annual wet. The road is in fact impassable and closed for much of the year. So the spectacular nature of the scenery is related to gorges and water courses. Here Windjanna Gorge gives up it's spectacular beauty in the fading afternoon light.

The Derby Jetty

No longer in use, it has been retained as a tourist attraction. Here it is shown off by some subtle lighting enhanced by the twilight hour.

Tomorrow we leave the vans in storage and head off with campers to do some proper exploring of the magnificent north west.

Derby Fish & chips

Spent the say preparing for the Gibb River Road. Every serious traveller to the Kimberly aims to travel the Gibb. Some make the journey without difficulty, many more tell horrendous stories of mis adventure, ruined tyres, and broken vehicles. But regardless of it's difficulties it continues it's magnetic attraction for all serious outback travelers.

Preparation is essential and so when I found a cracked fuel tank mounting bracket, (a casualty of the CSR a couple of years back), I went looking for a welder on Saturday morning, the day of the Derby Races not really thinking I would have much success. Wrong again! Without fuss or fanfare this rough looking young fella left the job he was on and climbed under. I don't think he spoke more than six words the whole time, just did the job, then said if I was comin' back this way to drop in and pay because the boss was away and he didn't know how much to charge. I gave him $50 and as I left, thought how much like Cobargo.

The view is from the Fish & Chips cafe as we waited for a delicious Barra Chips and Salad. The meal was good but no better than Bermi Saltwater or Taylors on Wagonga.

Derby Delights

Ten years ago we visited Derby, drove into town, out to the jetty, remembered the mud flats, sandflies, town dogs and a run down struggle town, and drove on out regretting the 40 odd k trip in.

How Derby has changed. The mud flats, mosses and sandflies are still here, but this is lovely little town with the most helpful and friendly people. The town has bee re-vitalized and cleaned up.

We missed the sunset but were still able to get some nice twilight shots.

Port Hedland

We were saddened to have to leave the natural beauty and variety of the Pilbra and arrived in Port Hedland just in time to see this giant ore carrier being escorted to it's berth.
The size of everything from the trains, ships and road trains is humongous!
At any given time there are 20 or more ships at anchor 16k offshore awaiting loading. Loading takes 30 hours and ships sail on high tide with only meters to clear the keel.
It was really something to stand in the street of town and see this huge ship sail past just meters away and then be turned around in little more than it's own length for berthing.

The Pilbra

We were sorry to leave the ever changing beauty of the Pilbra. Mist people appear to prefer the coastal route north of Perth, but for interest and beauty of scenery the inland route offered us an ever changing variety.
Perhaps we are also spoilt by the beauty of the far south coast of NSW with it's unsurpassed coastal and hinterland beauty.

Gorge out of Marble Bar

On the bitumen now between Marble Bar and Port Hedland and we took a detour into this Gorge, who's name escapes me. We had smoko in here.
We will be leaving the real Pilbra soon as we head for the coast.
We are constantly amazed by the size of ore carrying road trains, it is common to see four huge ore trailers in excess of 50m in length and cruising at 90k come up behind. At first this can be quite daunting, but we soon learnt to communicate with the driver as he prepares for the overtaking manourver.

Chinamans Pool

I don't think the pool always has this amount of water in it, but it looked very inviting when we visited.

Marble Bar

The famous Marble Bar. When first discovered, it was thought to be a bar of real marble. That proved not to be the case but I expect the same people never dreamt of the riches that the gold, diamonds, iron ore and other minerals held for the whole of the Pilbara.
The town is more generally known for the dubious distinction of being Australia's hottest town. Incidentally on the way in this afternoon the temp got up to 34 in the truck and the town thermometer showed 27 as we pulled in.

Custom Border Patrol

Not far out of Marble Bar we were pulled over and interrogated by two very efficient Customs Investigators.
They were looking for Australian fauna smugglers and I suspect our past criminal record with the Fruit Fly Gestapo had been relayed through ahead of us. It's a sad fact, but once you get record it takes some living down.
Well after we finally convinced them that we were not Budgie smugglers, and the only birds we had on board were both legally married to us, they quickly changed their tune and appointed us unofficial Flora and Fauna Protection Agents ...I'd like to tell you more but because of the sensitive nature of our work, we must maintain a high degree of secrecy whilst operating under cover as we are.
I can tell you however, that we were issued with very nice little plastic bags of informative pamphlets outlining our area of responsibility and given personally engraved biro pens by courtesy of the Australian Government in appreciation.

Scones for Breakie

Last evenings delicious baked chicken dinner was followed next morning by fresh scones, blackberry jam and cream.
Today it's Mary turn to prepare the baking.

Culinary anticipation

The girls have prepared the chicken and obligatory four vegetables, the fire has been lit and Stan waits with shovel in hand to fine-tune the temperature by skillful application of coals.

Wild Dog Creek

Every now again a bush camp site pops up that will be remembered long after the trip ends.
This was one of those sites. Shirley found it in Camps 6, but it took quite some back-tracking and snooping to find it. Apparently locals have to some length to preserve it's secrecy by removing all signage and indicators. This ofcourse makes it even more special to those who succeed in finding it.
We pulled in around 2pm with heaps of time to set up camp, for Stan to get wood for the camp fire in preparation for a camp oven dinner.

Garden Pool

Just out of Nullagine we discovered this jewel of a pool. The pool just seems to 'appear' out of nowhere and does not appear to be part of a permanent river system.
What an oasis in the hottest part of Oz with summer temps regularly in the 50's.

Pilbara Persuit

I have never considered the Pilbara to be on the "must see" list of places to visit, but within an hour or two on the road between Newman and Marble Bar we were "hooked".
The region itself has fast become the engine room of the nations economy with virtually every mining company of note keen to have a presence in the area.
But it is the scenery that captivates, the colours and the ever changing topography that is unique and Pilbara defined.

Opportunity knocks

Given the wages on offer up here, I thought it a good investment to fit Mary out in some work gear and send her down to the employment office to try for a job. She hasn't returned as yet but will keep you posted

Mt.Whaleback mine

Got into Newman Friday morning and booked in for two days.
This morning Mary and I took a mine tour with BHP. This is Whaleback mine owned and operated by BHP, the largest open cut iron ore mine in the world. It also claims to have the highest ore grade and an expected life of at least 70 years. They have not yet been able to gauge the depth of the ore seam, so large is the deposit.
The open pit is over 5k in length and 2k wide. BHP employ more than 10,000 workers and their wages earned are astronomical! It is common to hear of workers taking home $2,500 per week after tax.

Karinjini Pool

An oasis in the desert, what a place to be when the temp up top gets to 50 plus! Only trouble is it's 100m and more down with sheer cliffs on either side.

Karinjini

The environment is very dry and hot, but in the valleys, we could see pools and in some cases a waterfall cascading into beautiful cool pools surrounded by tropical vegetation.
Karinjini is found in the Pilbara between Tom Price and Newman.
It's difficult for us easterners to comprehend, but the Pilbara area is home to the lifeblood of the Australian economy. This is a vibrant area with never ending mining vehicle traffic of all sizes and description and yet the Hammersly ranges and other ranges look so unspoiled and beautiful that we get the impression we are the people to discover some of them.

Kirijini National Park

The road was very corrugated and rough, but 150k journey was worth every bone jarring rut.
We have seen many famous gorges, Kings Cannon in the NT, Catherine Gorge and the list could go on, but I think WA has the most spectacular, unspoiled gorges of any other state. There were gorges all through Kirijini. A wonderful place for the fit bushwalker, which we were not.

Cararvon's One Mile Jetty

Among some of the longest jetty's in the west, Carnarvons jetty was built to transport live cattle and sheep to Fremantle but was put out of service by the advent of road transport and improved road construction.
The wharf jetty boasted the longest cattle race in to world at the time. It fell into disrepair until local efforts revived it as tourist attraction. We first travelled the rickety old train ride out to the end in 2001 and little has changed. The hand rail on the one side still wobbles precariously and we stepped around friendly workers with chainsaws as they worked replacing the odd sleeper that had rotted away.
Couldn't help thinking how different the attitude in the west is to OHS issues and fear of litigation. It's refreshing to be expected to take responsibility for ones own safety.
We have had a lay day here and restocked with provisions before heading off in the morning for Port Headland. The north coast of WA is remembered for long distances between towns and very isolated rural stations, some hundreds of kilometers west of the highway.

Four bridges on the Murchison

The stillness of the morning is revealed in the four bridges on the river.

River reflection

A beautiful still morning heralded stunning reflections on the still river.
As beautiful as the river looked, we were reminded that it is rare to see water in the Murchison, but the recent floods have provided the river with a welcome flush.

Bush camp on the Murchison

A long drive today from Cervantes, making camp on the bank of the Murchison around five.
Quite a warm night with clear sky and no wind.

Organ with a difference

The monks commissioned the building of a new organ, but at the time there was a shortage of white ivory. And so, the ever resourceful monks of New Nocia suggested this practical solution .....because there are more white notes than black on a traditional keyboard, then why not reverse the order ... Brilliant!

St Adopholos Chapel

Another beautiful chapel. This was attached to the boys college.